The Travelling MacBook

Coldplay - NIA Birmingham - 3rd December 2008

2008-12-04T16:09:00.006Z

test

2008-08-31T19:25:00.002+01:00

Amsterdam

2008-03-31T11:09:00.016+01:00

Marrakech

2008-02-27T11:51:00.007Z

A short four night break in Marrakech, Morrocco, staying in a traditional Riad in the old medina. Chaotic, frenetic, smelly, colourful - fascinating. Hard to believe it's only a few hours from London.

Market

The local butchers

The Ben Youssef Medersa - an old Islamic school

Mosaic detail

Medina

Door

Vivid blue at the Majorelle Gardens

The Jemaa El Fna - the main square of Marrakech that seethes with life

Food stalls

Finished!

2008-02-21T11:29:00.000Z

Soothing sage green walls and neutral sofa covers to complement the new floor

New floor, new decor, new cushions and foot stool cover.

Tricky around the door, but a tidy finish ;-)

"Dan Corner"

New floor - part 2!

2008-02-18T11:09:00.000Z

More work in progress from our epic project...

Unfortunately the lounge needs decorating - yuk

Dan the Man arrives to help

Finally make it to the other side

Going well so far

First few planks being laid

New Floor - part 1

2008-02-12T11:28:00.002Z

Before

Logistical nightmare, hence sofas in the garden

Tar + tiles + carpet = headache

Dodgy builder

So glad to get rid of the carpet!

Duffy - The Pigalle club, London

2008-02-06T23:01:00.000Z

London

2008-02-06T11:14:00.000Z

Putting the Canon G9 through it's paces along the Thames in London. It passes with flying colours (and I mean colours). Love it!

Athlete - Reading Hexagon

2008-02-02T12:36:00.000Z

The Magic Numbers - Royal Festival Hall

2007-12-06T10:41:00.000Z

Peak District - November 2007

2007-12-04T17:27:00.001Z

London - Saturday 20th October

2007-10-21T13:15:00.000+01:00

A trip to Docklands and Canary Wharf, followed by the South Bank area.

Nikon 60mm AF Micro-Nikkor Lens

2007-10-19T17:08:00.000+01:00

Spent the afternoon walking around the grounds of Hughenden Manor, a National Trust house nearby, to test my new micro / macro lens that arrived this morning. Macro photography has been something I've been eager to try for a while - my 18-200 VR lens gets close, but you end up having to crop a bit, duly losing detail. Already I love this new lens - it's got a lovely solid chunky feel. The AF is a bit noisy (it's run from the camera rather than internally) but you soon get used to it. I actually ended up focussing manually for a change and found it much more satisfying to use.

All these results are as taken - no cropping, no post-production. Amazing. I can see why people rave about this lens. Just need another body now so I never have to swap!

Wycombe Wanderers vs Notts County

2007-10-06T18:34:00.002+01:00

3-1 winners today - blimey!!!

Las Vegas

2007-10-06T18:34:00.001+01:00

Images from Grand Teton National Park

2007-09-16T08:13:00.001+01:00

Images from Yellowstone National Park

2007-09-16T07:46:00.002+01:00

On the Road

2007-09-16T07:46:00.001+01:00

...

USA Road Trip 2007 - Seattle

2007-09-12T06:20:00.000+01:00

It's our big 2007 holiday, driving from Seattle to Las Vegas. Blipfoto (aside) has our daily journal of what we have been up to, but here are some of our extra favourite images:

Turin

2007-08-01T14:32:00.000+01:00

Just back from a long weekend in Turin for J's birthday. A fantastic time spent meandering around the streets of this Italian city, known as a 'hidden gem' in travel guides as it is yet to suffer the hoardes that descend on the other big tourist magnets of Rome, Venice and Florence. (It hosted the Winter Olympics in 2006 and is equally famous for Juventus, Fiat and the Italian Job!).

All the better for us visiting though, and it did indeed feel like we had the historic streets and picturesque piazzas to ourselves. The days were spent just wandering around, eating ice cream (a bit of a religion there) and stopping for a coffee or a cold beer in one of the umpteen pavement cafes, whilst each evening was spent eating delicious food on terraces at homely trattorias.

Our hotel was fantastic and is highly recommended - the 5* Golden Palace hotel, recently opened - a modern, contemporary gem.

The perfect city break really.

Cafe Torino, the first day

definitely a 'cafe culture'

reflections

I like this one...

the ubiquitous graffiti

knockers

a quaint old tobacconists

view towards town from the river

another 'timeless' shop

walkway at the 'Lingotto' factory

more knockers...

the fine weather made for great light and shadows

Cafe Torino on our last night

Birthday cake from the hotel!

Sleasyjet

The last few weeks...

2007-06-18T13:18:00.000+01:00

Panjim was the final bit of travelling here, so the last two weekends have been spent around Mumbai, dodging rain showers and doing last minute shopping. Very little to report other than that! Thankfully the monsoon has yet to kick in fully, so I've been very lucky in that June has not been a total washout. There have been heavy showers, but equally lots of dry periods. So grateful!

And now only a few days to go now - can't wait to get home!!! It's not that it's bad here (well, the work is not exactly stimulating), but home has more to offer after a while here. Anyway, here's a selection from the last week or so:

Some spectacular sunsets

The menacing monsoon clouds sweeping in

Pub Quiz at the office - my team- started well, faded in the second half!

This car has seen better days

'Art' in the Churchgate station area

Rain - lots of it...

Dinner at Sachin Tendulkar's restaurant

Hard Rock Cafe, Mumbai - cheesy but fun! Great memorabilia on the walls.

Panjim, Goa

2007-06-10T17:15:00.000+01:00

A weekend away in Panjim, the colourful Portuguese influenced state capital of Goa. We flew down with Spicejet (again) and arrived at the Panjim Inn, a welcoming old colonial building, fully restored and now a cosy inn. Huge rooms, the biggest four poster beds you've ever seen. The weekend was spent pottering around the city - much smaller than Mumbai, and almost sleepy in comparison - a welcome change of scenery.

Weekend in Mumbai

2007-06-03T13:05:00.000+01:00

A lazy (but welcome) weekend. Leisurely breakfasts, a few hours by the pool. Went for a walk to kill a few hours today though - still a few things I intended to photograph, and was 'in the mood' to take pictures. Took a taxi to Horniman Circle in the Fort area of Mumbai, only to first stumble on a shoot for a new commercial - all very impressive, with fake rain falling from the sky, lots of 'model types' getting wet (men unfortunately), and vintage cars (supplied by a man who proudly told me it's his "wish to visit the UK one day" - step this way!). Great fun watching a policeman with a big stick keeping the crowds at bay, but leaving me alone - I obviously looked important.

Just like Hollywood

Model type bloke

A fabulous Cadillac

Then walked via Flora Fountain towards Oval Maidan - all places I'd been before, but much quieter on a Sunday, and cooler today too. Had a few photos with me of people I'd taken portraits of a while ago, but unfortunately found only one person out of four - the Kerala coconut seller seen in March - thrilled (and surprised!) to get a copy, asking me "how much??". Took great portraits of a father and three sons running their sugar cane juice stall, after they stopped me for a change, and it's opposite a shop I know well so I can get copies done for them.

Flora Fountain

Sugar cane sellers

The other son

Yes! Do!

Oval Maidan

Requested a picture too - people were very chatty and relaxed today

Got back to the hotel only for another film shoot to be taking place right outside, involving a bus, a taxi and a rather glamorous girl on a moped. A huge crowd gathered around to watch. By the time I made it back to my room it was time for the flying through the air after a crash action scene.

Hmmmmm...

... it would never work between us...

"Action"!

The 'stunt'

I'm guessing she was pretty well known, given the phalanx of hangers on fawning over her. I volunteered my services but was turned down. Back to the day job...

Back to Delhi

2007-05-31T10:18:00.000+01:00

Sunday morning

A more relaxing morning at the hotel - plans to get up at 5am to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise had unsurprisingly gone out the window! A quick swim in the hotel pool before leaving at 1pm for the odious drive back to Delhi Airport.

Evil is everywhere

Lovely Agra

Nope, he's not praying...

The Pawna Restaurant - just like a Little Chef, but sh*t

Cows suddenly heading towards us!

Street scene

We made it back to Delhi airport with plenty of time. Liz and I proceeded to the Kingfisher Airlines desk to check-in, from which point things got decidedly strange! On noticing our 'status' here in our passports, the check-in agent informed me that "I have a message for you", at which point a man appeared to escort us to a business lounge where we could wait for our flight. This is looking good we thought, as Kingfisher do have a superb business class section on their brand new planes - could it finally be the mythical upgrade that everyone dreams about?!?

From the lounge we were collected by another man, who promptly whisked us through security, past the long queue, and onto our own business class coach with huge red 'sofa' seats, even carrying our carry-on luggage for us. This is looking very good! Then we boarded the plane, with the other business class passengers, looking for seats 11c and 11d, thinking they would be two together in the 2+2 configuration - nope, they were in the first row beyond the dreaded curtain, both on the aisle in the 3+3 seats. The guy delivered our hand luggage and gave me a look as if to say "I did all that for them???". Still, it was a good flight nevertheless.

At the other end the mystery continued - having been denied access to the Business Class bus, rather unceremoniously brushed away from it, we boarded the normal bus with the other commoners. On setting foot in the terminal a rather stressed looking Kingfisher rep came running up to me and said "Mr Kelly!!! I've been looking for you everywhere!!!" - cue odd glances from us. She obviously expected us to be on the business class bus...! So we then sat down whilst she and a helper located our luggage for us, brought it over, and then escorted us to the taxi rank (not the VIP limo which they probably expected us to have waiting). All very very strange...... I can only think we were meant to be upgraded, but the poor check-in girl put us in one row too far.... bugger!

The Taj Mahal

2007-05-31T09:09:00.001+01:00

Saturday afternoon

After some much needed lunch at the hotel, we hopped on our minbus at 4pm for the short drive to the Taj Mahal - temperatures were much more bearable at this time of day, and we hoped to catch the sunset when the monument changes colour. Of course as soon as we got off at the car park touts, guides, hawkers and beggars descended on us. Some were offering rickshaws to the entrance - now I had already learned my lesson in Matheran, so I immediately snaffled one up with Fi to save our legs the (1km?) walk!

Curious local kids

We purchased our entrance tickets at the massively inflated tourist prices - 750 rupees, compared to 20 rupees for locals. We should do the same in the UK :-)

Entry to the main compound was through a hug 30 m high sandstone gate, through which we got our first view of the Taj Mahal - stunning, and worth every minute of the flight / bus / rickshaw journey to get there:

Then we jostled with the thousands of other tourists, all wanting that perfect picture of the Taj Mahal!

Proof, I was there!

The classic view

Once we'd captured the views from afar we moved closer to it. You had to leave your shoes at the front before walking barefooted on the marble surfaces of the plinth. The detail up close was beautiful.

Precious stones inlaid into the marble

Local families as curious about us as the wonderful
monument behind them!!!

Quotations from the Quran

We were there for well over two hours, just ambling around and soaking it all up. Some parts of the site were much quieter places to escape the crowds - you could sit there alone and enjoy the view without being bothered:

The sun started setting, and the whole complex took on a different colour - the Taj Mahal itself went a yellowy orange colour.

The neighbouring Taj Mosque, with the sun setting behind it

Heading home....

Delhi to Agra

2007-05-30T16:46:00.000+01:00

Saturday morning

Up earlyish for the 4-5 hour drive from Delhi to Agra - the location of the Taj Mahal. Breakfast didn't agree with me again - this time due to me foolishly having my malaria tablet on an empty stomach - fool...

A large minibus had been laid on, complete with vital air-con and mini fans above each seat! I grabbed the back seat, whacked on the iPod, and sat back as we passed through various towns and villages, each more dusty and frenetic as the last one.

Roadside stalls everywhere you looked - everyone
trying to survive by making some money

Typical roadside scene

An old man gave all the girls a shock
when he revealed his snake at the window

Colourful truck - it's like a competition to paint them

After two hours driving we stopped at the "Maharaja Palace" restaurant - a bizarre castle structure in the middle of nowhere - a sort of Indian Little Chef really, complete with the obligatory souvenir shop (and a toilet attendant who wanted to swap his £10 note that someone had given him for my rupees - no ta!)

We got LOTS of attention!

Finally arrived at the Taj View hotel - part of the Taj group of hotels. Some sly work by Fi with her contacts ensured we got a great room on the top floor, with a fantastic view of the Taj Mahal. Agra is nothing to write home about - bit of a wild-west dustbowl really, where bicylces and camels are the primary mode of transport! Everyone is there though for the big sights, and nothing else.

Camel passing the hotel!

The view from our hotel

Delhi

2007-05-30T15:48:00.000+01:00

Last Friday

Up at 5am for a Kingfisher Airlines flight to Delhi - a weekend away to see India's capital, and the Taj Mahal. Felt decidedly delicate both at the airport and the plane - the events the night before had taken their toll! The in-flight omlette didn't really sit too comfortably - my apologies to the man sitting next to me, who had to witness it's reappearance 10 minute later!!!

Fiona and her Chennai crew arrived a 15 minutes after us, and we all made our way to Claridges Hotel, our hotel for the first night. Delhi is a sprawling city, very different to Mumbai - it reminded me of Milton Keynes, with lots of long roads and roundabouts! The hotel was excellent - great value - especially as we were upgraded to a suite - room 007! Like I needed reminding of the night before...

After a few hours sleep and rest by the pool we ventured to Old Delhi to see the Red Fort - a huge sprawling complex surrounded by narrow streets full of shops and people.

The Red Fort

Window at the Red Fort

Inlaid decoration

Group photo!

We used a cycle rickshaw to tour the area, leading to some hairy encounters with rather large buses and mad taxi drivers, and us holding on for our lives! It was noisy, smelly and chaotic, and exactly what I imagined India to be before I came here - I loved it.

Old Delhi street

On the steps at the mosque

The QBP

2007-05-25T17:29:00.000+01:00

Time to celebrate Liz's birthday in style, so on with the glad rags and nipped next door to the Hilton for the annual Queen's Birthday Party - the great and good of Mumbai were there.... and us....

I planned to be a pillar of sobriety all evening - unfortunately the small matter of one or two vodka martinis intervened, and I may have got a bit tipsy - cheers!!!! Hic...

Jennie, Rebecca and Jane

Belting out the Bond classics - they were great!

Charming...

The bizarre swimwear show

Pimms o'clock!

Neil and Lisa - guilty as hell

Goa

2007-05-15T10:00:00.000+01:00

Final weekend of J's visit, unfortunately. We celebrated in style with a trip to Goa. Spicejet flights straight after work on Friday, and 45 minutes later we landed at Dabolim Airport. You could feel the contrast straight away - less noise, traffic, pollution and more greenery! Such a refreshing change - especially after Chennai the previous weekend.

Our complimentary (though old) bus transferred us to the Park Hyatt Hotel - our little treat for two nights. Welcome drinks in the lobby, before being shown to our huge room a short walk away. The resort is laid out in small villa blocks, each with 6-8 rooms on two floors. It all felt very exclusive and private.

The room was one of the best we've stayed in (and that's saying something) - very modern and contemporary, with great lighting, and the best bathroom ever - a sunken shower / bath that was big enough for a football team!

We dumped our bags and walked to the beach to catch the sunset. The resort had it's own private section, spotlessly clean (and guarded at each end to keep pesky hawkers away ;-)

The sky was amazing...

...and we paddled in the warm water - how all different to Mumbai it was.

The resort was all lit up night, becoming an almost magical place to walk around - Disney-esque in it's layout and design. You couldn't help but be impressed.

Dinner options included four to five restaurants, all surrounding an open air courtyard. You could look at the menu from any of the restaurants - we chose Indian the first night, delicious fish and meat dishes, cooked tandoori style, with Indian beer, steamed rice and roti bread. Delicious!

The pool area looked stunning lit up.

Saturday was spent by the pool doing absolutely nothing! It was busy at first, due to a large group of Belgiums congregating before their afternoon flight home, some disturbingly insisting on swimming in their Jockey y-fronts - nice. Once they'd left we pretty much had the pool to ourselves.

Another walk along the beach again in the afternoon. Could get used to this...

The Venus Beach Shack - shutting up shop for the monsoon

Another lovely dinner was had on Saturday evening - Italian this time. Then as a treat we ordered room service on Sunday morning - a man arrived with a huge picnic basket, containing plates of fresh fruit, baskets of warm bread and pastries, and metal 'tiffin' containers containing a full english breakfast. Add to this orange juice and coffee and it was the perfect start to the day.

Unfortunately we had to check out at 1pm for our bus back to the airport. Thankfully the weekend hadn't gone too quickly and it felt like we'd been there for much longer.

Perfect weekend.

Chennai

2007-05-07T13:47:00.000+01:00

Away for the weekend to visit Fi in Chennai - formerly Madras - the baking hot, polluted, melting pot capital of Tamil Nadu, in the south east corner of India. Jet Airways whisked us away from Mumbai - friendly staff and good service, and curry for the in-flight meal of course. We arrived in Chennai around 19.30, and took a pre-paid battered Ambassador taxi to the Taj Commandel - Fi's home for three months, ours for two nights. She's got everything on a plate there!

A nice room, although not as impressive as the newly refurbished one which Fi gladly showed us, but some nice garnishes like a scented candle and matches, and a box of chocolates made by the obviously very talented hotel chef - he popped up everywhere over the weekend, having made an impression on us early on. Great to see Fi, especially for J who had not seen her since Dan and Pam's nuptials in York. A few welcome drinks in the hotel bar, with attentive seasoned staff, before crashing into bed.

Fi cooked up an auto-rickshaw for us on the Saturday morning, to whisk us around the (few) sights. Great fun whizzing around in it, chopping and changing lanes - a recipe for disaster we thought, but you soon grew to trust the driver, even though he was on a knife-edge sometimes. It was fascinating to see another Indian city though, and one that is obviously slowly changing as I imagine Mumbai did maybe 10-15 years ago. Hot though - I was frying - by then Chennai had served up it's main courses and it was time to head back to the pool for dessert.

Hindu Temple

The ubiquitous tuk-tuk

Bombing along

Blokes in a truck

An Ambassador car

Downtown Chennai

Sunday was quieter, with a morning by the pool for me whilst the girls got their nails done, then off for a big 'thali' lunch at a local South Indian restaurant - lots of little dishes on a larger metal plate, constantly topped up. Very tasty.

Before long it was time to leave the hotel, having poached the usual toiletries, and head back to the airport, again in a tuk-tuk. Goodbyes said to Fi - the next time J will see her will probably be in Las Vegas!

The wife is here....!

2007-05-04T12:44:00.000+01:00

J has been in Mumbai a week now, having arrived last Friday. An enjoyable time had (of course!) - it's great being able to show her around the city, returning to places like Dhobi Ghatts, Gandhi's house, and Banganga Tank. And she loves it here, she says. It is a city that grabs you, of that there is no doubt. I suppose it's a classic love / hate relationship!

She has been quite happy vegging by the pool and relaxing whilst muggins here goes to work each day, but equally has also been brave and ventured out onto the mad streets herself, all in the name of shopping....!

First night - G&T in the Dome Bar, Intercontinental Hotel - an essential place to visit

The impressive Victoria Terminus

I returned to Banganga Tank with her, where I took pictures a few weeks ago. This time I had copies of them to hand out, and found most of the people, who gleefully accepted the prints. Very satisfying.

And then more kids cried 'one photo!', so it looks like I'll be returning yet again!

And another

"Last one, gotta go now!"

At Gandhi's house

Painting with light

2007-04-26T20:30:00.000+01:00

Unfortunately I've not seen much of Mumbai this week, but Blip ensures I always carry my camera, and with the idea of getting at least one good picture a day I experiment a bit more. Hence tonight, following a mexican vegetarian meal (tasty! honest!) I ambled down to the sea front, set the camera on long exposure, and started 'painting' with the lights along the promenade.

Matheran

2007-04-22T21:37:00.000+01:00

At last, a welcome weekend away from the madness of Mumbai - 5 of us venturing off to Matheran, 68 miles from Mumbai, a small hill fort established by British colonists (good work fellas!). The journey in fact began on Friday, when we ventured to CST station to get tickets for an express train - duly passed from counter to counter, before ending up at the "Tourist Quota" counter, only to find out the express trains were sold out but we could get a local train instead. "What time would that be?" only to be told "I can't tell you, but you can get a timetable at another counter". AAAAAAARGH!!!!!

Eventually pitched up at CST on Saturday morning just after 8am. Panic set in a bit when our train failed to materialise on the departures boards, but eventually did, and we raced to the platform and settled down in our luxurious 1st class 'compartment' - hmmmm:

Well it was basic and functional, but did the job, and we had most of the two sets of seats for nearly all the two hour journey. At least we had seats! Second class passengers were packed in like sardines, hence the stereotypical image of people hanging out the doors.

Fascinating to watch the suburbs of Mumbai thin out as we entered the countryside, passing small communities that give an impression of a different side to this vast country. Here the local kids were enthralled by a tiny wheel set up for them. Such simple pleasures.

Eventually arrived at Neral along with a few hundred other day-trippers and weekenders. A short walk later and were were in a van heading up the mountain, driving around some hair-raising bends. Once deposited at the car park various touts offered rick-shaws and horses to us (as all vehicles are banned from the actual town), but being the stout Brits that we were we brushed them aside and marched off, up the hill, on the short 4.5 km walk to our hotel. I think I lasted about 5 minutes before caving in, and gladly paid 200 Rs for some equine help in ascending the hill. 30 mins later I was in the hotel room, showered and changed, whilst the rest caught up by horse, rick-shaw and foot.

At least we had made it. Our hotel was the 'Verandah in the Forest', a lovely old colonial house set in woods, with rooms full of character, quiet understated service, and most of all peace and quiet. By mid-afternoon we were all settled on the verandah itself, with books, iPods and cold beer. Heaven.

After afternoon tea and more rest, we headed to 'Echo Point' to take in the wonderful sunset. It was stunning:

Locals taking in the view - just good friends...

On the way back I couldn't resist having a go at the 'bolling alley' (bless) - alas didn't win.

This is the Verandah lit up at night. You really couldn't fault it as a hotel - it was like staying in a friend's house. Nothing was too much trouble for the staff, and the meals were great (and cheap).

The dining room - space for 20

After a leisurely breakfast it was time to leave. Now there was the small matter of heading back down the hill to the car park - walking was out of the question. Five rickshaws were hastily summoned, and each of us climbed into one, and each duly pushed and pulled by three men all the way to the bottom. What a sight.

Downtown Matheran - the canny locals are famous for cobbling, selling shoes to the tourists whose own ones are ruined by the red dust that gets EVERYWHERE!!! I'm still finding it in places even now....

Monkeys were everywhere

The Oberoi's new restaurant

Named after the 80s Essex pop group

A rick-shaw ride later and we were back at the car park on the edge of Matheran. A perceptive bloke spotted us and offered us a van back to Mumbai, rather than the alternative van-to-Neral-then-train-at-an-unknown-time option - it was an offer we found hard to turn down, and we were soon on the road back to the city. It was a hot journey, but we saw yet more of the country, passing Bollywood film studios, cows, temples, and more cows.

We were soon deposited back at the door to the Oberoi, where the friendly doorman, having waved us off on Saturday morning, recognised us and welcomed the weary travellers back!

Saturday part 4 - Hali Ali Dargah

2007-04-14T18:31:00.002+01:00

Final stop, Hali Ali Dargah, a white shrine built on a tiny island, reachable only at low tide. To get to it you have to walk along this causeway, lined down one side with beggars, down the other with hawkers selling. My pocketful of 1 rupee coins was handed out on the way back - a pittance really.

The Shrine

Heaving with local families - had a circus feel to it

Colourful banners adorning the shrine

Two geezers having a natter

And then back to the hotel, in two taxis, with the 'drivers' (in the loosest sense of the term), competing against each other! Team A, messrs Jane, Jennie and Nila, won.

Saturday part 3 - Dhobi Ghats

2007-04-14T18:31:00.001+01:00

After lunch, next stop was 'Dhobi Ghats' at Mahalaxmi, where over 200 'dhobis', or laundreymen, wash clothes collected from companies, hotels and homes all over Mumbai, in a maze of concrete wash pens. Absolutely fascinating to watch. They thrash the clothes on the stones, starch them, hang them to dry, and then iron them with 'charcoal' irons. A guide quickly showed me around for a small fee!

Even new clothes are washed, just after manufacture

An open-air launderette!

Cleanest shirt in Mumbai

The concrete pens

Thrashing the clothes

Saturday part 2 - Hanging Gardens and Gandhi's House

2007-04-14T18:30:00.000+01:00

Next stop The Hanging Gardens - a peaceful spot, and apparently the place where courting couples go for 'quality time', although ever under the watchful eyes of the 'moral police' - no holding hands, no kissing, and as for anything else, well....

Every park should have penguin bins!

Then to Gandhi's house, a very well presented museum based in his house in Mumbai. An impressive collection of books, photographs and other artefacts from his life:

The man himself

His room

Saturday part 1 - The Jain Temple and Banganga Tank

2007-04-14T18:29:00.000+01:00

Today spent on a whirlwind tour of various sights in Mumbai. Six of us in a people mover going from place to place. One of the best days so far for sheer variety and a wealth of photo opportunities - 160 or so taken....! First stop the Jain Temple, where they had issues with women's problems:

Making offerings

Very peaceful and contemplative place

Next onto Banganga Tank, a quiet and peaceful part of Mumbai in the Malabar Hill area - had a completely different feel to anywhere experienced so far - happy children playing, parents chatting in shop doors. The 'tank', or holy lake, is the oldest sacred Hindu site in the city.

Children playing an Indian board game

Soon made some friends - "one photo please!"

More pictures to print and deliver hopefully

The lads!

Crawford Market, Mumbai

2007-04-07T23:04:00.000+01:00

Saturday again in Mumbai. Taxi to Crawford Market - one of the largest in Mumbai, specialising in fruit, veg and, well everything else you can imagine! Unfortunately pestered by beggars, touts and porters but all part of the experience. The 'tourists' become the attraction ("we live here! we're locals!" we cry). The Lonely Planet made it clear that visitors do not need a porter to escort them round, which we gladly relayed to a rather persistent fellow who wanted to show us around "for no money" - yeah right! The stall-holders were actually very welcoming once you got past the porters - happy to chat if they could, talk about their business and products. Great fun.

Nuts 'n' spices

Sweet shop

Fruit 'n' veg

Great shapes and colours

The Mango Man

Silhouettes

Dial-a-mango - GENIUS!

The flower seller

Weekend in Mumbai - pictures of Mumbaikers

2007-03-31T17:11:00.000+01:00

First proper walk into the city - the Universal Building was my target for the day, subject of my blip today. Headed left out of the hotel to be hit by the heat and dust. It was good to see the locals going about their business - Saturday seemed to be as busy as any other day. This first chap got chatting to me after I took his picture - he's lived in Mumbai for 27 years having moved from Kerala in the South, and spends his days providing coconut milk.

Next headed towards Oval Maiden - a long stretch of "grass" (in the dust sense of the word), where the future stars of Indian cricket play. This first chap happily posed for a picture:

Closely followed by two nearby security guards who were watching with amusement and were most insistent that I took their picture too!! The beauty of the digital camera is that you can show them straight away the result, which in all cases today resulted in big smiles from all concerned.

The budding cricketers:

This was one of a row of three Hillman Hunters (I think?) parked outside the Bombay High Court - I don't think they'd moved for a while judging by their appearance!

Next chap was smiling at his tiny open shoe shop - he seemed to have about a dozen pairs to choose from but also did running repairs to anyone who stopped:

And of course he was so pleased with his it was only right that his friend (or possible father?) got his portrait too - my favourite of the day. I'll endeavor to get them printed and return to see them:

Toyed getting a taxi back after a few hours but plumped for walking instead. Still had my three 'perfect' hotel apples that they leave in my room, and had deliberately taken them as there are people living on the street more deserving than me. The first guy was pitifully holding his hand out to any passers by, but not hassling them. I placed the apple in it and got a nod and a two handed 'prayer' thank you. And then I saw two kids with their mother, sitting in the road sorting out a rubbish bag, finding some crisps in a bag that someone had discarded. They got my last two. Heartbreaking to see that people live like that, but what can you do?

Out and About

2007-03-29T19:10:00.000+01:00

Finished work at 4.30pm today - wow! Only 30 mins late! Straight back to the hotel, quickly changed into urban commando gear (shorts, shirt and sandals) and decided to go for a walk, Mumbai style. Turned right outside the hotel onto the sea front, and ambled along the promenade soaking up the sun.

Blimey it's hot here, even with the cooling sea breeze. Took some photos of the knackered Mumbai taxis speeding along (see blip aside!). Even the local police station is open air :-)

All along Marine Drive are these spectacular art deco apartments and tower blocks, in verying states of repair, some looking absolutely derelict. Apparently inside they are luxury flats, owned by the rich and famous on one of the most expensive roads here (and there are are some VERY rich people here, completely out numbered by the very poor...)

Took a side road after walking past the cricket stadium, and found myself at Churchgate Station, a heaving mass of humanity as commuters arrived and left. Found a small vegetarian cafe serving Indian food that looked welcoming, and it had ceiling fans inside - oh come to momma! Plonked myself down opposite a gruff local (it was sit where you could) and had a tasty Vegetable Biryani and Sprite, pushing the boat out at 65 rupees - about 80p - 10 times less than we paid last night for a meal in a western style restaurant. More like that and I'll make some cash here ;-) Fingers crossed it won't repeat on me - touch wood I've been ok so far, but probably leading a charmed life....

Carried on along the side streets, ignoring (unfortunately) the street urchins who run along side you with their hands out. Painful to do but some advise it's better giving to local charities rather than encourage them. I certainly endeavor to do so.

This is the famous Eros Cinema, another art deco stunner, alas in the same faded grandeur style so ever present here.

In a strange way things are turning around, in that buildings were allowed to fall into states of disrepair the last few decades, and are now being replaced with impressive, modern edifices for the aspiring Indian middle and upper classes. Unfortunately outside these polished buildings there remains an all to visible underworld of the poor and needy. You might have a shiny mirrored tower block, but guaranteed outside the pavement is broken, the road has a pot-hole and a man sleeps on the floor with not a rupee to his name...

Mumbai

2007-03-28T16:51:00.000+01:00

Well I'm here! It's 21.20 local time and I'm making the most of my internet connection. Still waiting for the hotel to sort out a 50% of the price long term package for me, which still costs a fortune, but you gotta have the net here!

A long journey on Sunday into Monday. Up at 5am, left Heathrow at 8.30, arrived in Dubai after a largely dull and sleepy flight, before vegging in the business class lounge for three hours. Even the novelty of being in Dubai airport again couldn't rouse me into ambling around - you've seen one duty free shop, you've seen them all! Eventually boarded the Mumbai flight, but left over an hour late - nice one Emirates. Managed to sleep a bit again before arriving in Mumbai at.... 4am....! I didn't half feel like sh*t! Luckily immigration was no hassle, my baggage turned up and my driver whisked me to the Oberoi Hotel - home for three months. Unfortunately they were not expecting me until the Monday evening, so a 30 min wait ensued whilst they sorted it out. It was way after 5am by the time I dumped my bags on the floor, had a very welcome shower and crashed into bed, literally exhausted.

Unfortunately work expected me in the next morning - managed to get the hotel to negotiate a 1pm start for me, by which time I was up and about anyway. Went through basics and admin before returning to the hotel to veg in my room with a burger and TV. Nice enough hotel, all very corporate and businessy, with super friendly staff who smile if you need anything, but are just a bit lacking when it comes to actually actioning things! That's another story....

So, been here a few days now, settling in a bit. Have not seen much of the city yet as the office is only a 5 minute walk - that is enough of an assault on the sense both at the start and end of the day!

One day to go...

2007-03-24T14:17:00.000Z

Packed! Didn't take long - about 45 minutes. Quite exciting really. Unfortunately an 8.30am start tomorrow :-(

Mumbai here I come!

York, Newcastle, North Wales - March 2007

2007-03-17T12:15:00.003Z

After the wedding headed to Newcastle via Fountains Abbey. Four nights spent at Gibside in a Landmark Trust property - the idyllic 'Banqueting House'. Great nights out in Newcastle to see both Keane (great!) and Newcastle United in the UEFA cup (4-2 - wow!). Home via North Wales to see Ma & Pa. A lovely week away.

Monday

York

Fountains Abbey

Fountains Abbey cloisters

Tuesday

Beamish Open Air Museum

Wifey at Beamish!

Beamish Open Air Museum - print shop

Keane at the Metro Radio Arena

Wednesday

Royal Navy visit the Quayside, Newcastle!

Angel of the North

Thursday

St James Park!

Mr and Mrs Stafford - Saturday 3rd March

2007-03-04T16:39:00.000Z

What a great day!

Up to York with Fi and Linds, stopping for a pub lunch at Hardwick Hall. Wedding held at the Grange Hotel. Full English on the Saturday morning to set us up. Nuptials over quickly, great meal, smashing evening chatting and drinking. The perfect wedding. Nice one Dan - about bloody time....!

Pictures just about up to standard too:

Pictures of Oxford

2007-02-26T16:46:00.000Z

Up the M40 to Oxford to test a new lens. Happy with results! An enjoyable few hours ambling around the colleges and buildings. Lunch in the Turf Tavern pub (tricky to find, well worth it!), then a quick visit to the superb indoor market - a plethora of butchers, grocers and so on - oh we wish we had one nearer to home. Oxford sausages, fresh lamb and pigeon breasts soon bought!

Pictures of Bournemouth

2007-02-20T15:11:00.000Z

After the concert last night and a hearty English breakfast, it was off to the promenade for a bracing walk! There is something about a British holiday resort in the off-season - still ticking over, die-hard holiday-makers, all a bit faded, rusting fixtures, peeling paintwork. I like it.

Then suddenly in July everything is spick and span - glossy, fresh paint, new.

The Feeling - Bournemouth - 19th February 2007

2007-02-20T14:57:00.001Z

Excellent gig at the BIC - following in the footsteps of Dave Cameron and Tony Blair! Good support from Fray (random bar conversation: "Eye, called Fray, in t' top five at moment".

This was the biggest show of The Feeling's short career so far, but it was slick and entertaining - all the hits and more - the crowd especially liked the covers of Video Killed The Radio Star and Fat Bottomed Girl. Ace - they're gonna be huge if they carry on like this.

Photography

2007-02-18T18:00:00.000Z

.... need to do more. Don't take enough pictures. Loved doing the Palace Fires pictures a while ago and was delighted with the results, but have failed to follow that up! So, have been searching the internet and looked for inspiration.

Love this website - submit a picture by theme each week: www.weeklyshot.org

Have added the Travelling Macbook here: www.photoblogs.org

And found this site - a daily picture from New York: www.ashotapart.com

So - I've been inspired, and decided I would try to at least take a picture each day, and where possible post it - it might be a picture of anything, from the mundane to the artistic - just need to be disciplined and do it! I've chosen blipfoto to host it - such a simple and elegant website, well designed and east to use:

www.blipphoto.com/stukelly

The Magic Numbers at the AB Brussels - 30th January 2007

2007-02-03T15:04:00.000Z

The Magic Numbers ...

A wonderful concert at the AB Brussels - our second at the venue in two nights (LOVE this venue!). We had it down to perfection this time - got there early, beer tokens bought, coats straight down to the lockers in the basement (genius idea - take note UK venues!), and then up to the first floor balcony for a superb view. Crap support - dunno who they were - never introduced themselves... how to promote yourself lesson 1 - FAILED.

The band were superb, excellent, magnificent - every superlative applicable. It was one of those gigs that you just wanted to watch again once it had finished. Highlights included a rousing This Is A Song, a beautiful version of Slow Down that incorporated Peter Gabriels Running Up That Hill, and a new song that we christened 'Words'. The band seemed to genuinely enjoy the experience, and were embarrassed almost at the wild reaction the Brussels crowd bestowed on them.

Fab.

Razorlight at the AB Brussels - 29th January 2007

2007-02-03T15:03:00.002Z

Concert number 1 in Brussels. Seven of us making the trip over on the Eurostar. Very civilised way to travel! Razorlight at the AB Brussels - purpose built concert venue in the centre of the city - modern, clean, good acoustics AND DECENT TOILETS!

Razorlight were good - never going to be my favourite band in the world but great fun to watch. All the big crowd pleasers played - America being an obvious highlight. Credit to the lightshow - I have not seen many gigs where the lighting has been in such perfect synch with the music - every little nuance picked up and relayed through an array of colours and patterns.

Now, lead singer Johnny Borrell - hmmm.....! He's just what a band needs I suppose - an energetic, lively frontman, but watching, well... you can't help but think he's a bit of a cock?! Did we enjoy it though.... yes!

Palace Fires - Camden Barfly - UPDATE!

2007-01-28T15:54:00.000Z

Pleased to report that Palace Fires have put my Camden Barfly pictures online for a short period, on the band's official website:

http://www.palacefires.co.uk/picturesbarfly.html

So my future as a concert photographer is off to a start! Thanks to CK at the website. Took my camera along thinking it would be a good chance to photograph the band in a small venue (and one that would not throw me out for doing so!), the results were better than expected, and next thing they're on the official website. And another set of pics for the portfolio. How cool?!

Happy days! Very pleased!

Palace Fires - Camden Barfly - 25th January 2007

2007-01-26T11:58:00.000Z

Part two from last night - the headliners Palace Fires. On stage for about 40 minutes and played nine songs. All sounded excellent and the band look extremely confident and comfortable - lead singer Ed looks the part! New song 'Reaction' was catchy, whilst previous singles Never Gonna Go Away and Nothing Comes Close sounded superb. Closer Start The Fire rounded things off brilliantly, and the appreciative crowd melted away into the cold London night happy. You just hope they're on the road to success - if bilge like Blunt can dominate the airwaves and charts, then surely well crafted songs like these should be there too if there is any justice in the world?

Listen to them here: http://www.palacefires.co.uk/listen.htm

Pictures came out really well:

Low vs Diamond - Camden Barfly - 25th January 2006

2007-01-26T11:20:00.000Z

Into London last night to the Camden Barfly to see Palace Fires (the new band of Gene members Steve Mason and Matt James (more about them later). Venue lived up to expectations - a nice smoky room above a pub with barely enough room to swing a cat in, but squeezed into a corner by the stage and watched the bands from there.

Missed the first band but made it to see Low Vs Diamond on stage about 9.30pm - the second London gig of a LA based band that are 'creating a buzz' having been signed by The Killers manager (I knew all this before of course...). Time Out described them as a mix of U2, Keane and The Strokes. I'd say that was pretty accurate - big indie rock tunes with melodic choruses. Remember one song - Low vs High? - that sounded excellent. Lead singer was charismatic, owning the stage in his Ray-bans - reminded me of Jonny Burrell from Razorlight both in looks and actions. All in all impressive!

Pictures here:

Ben Folds at Hammersmith Apollo - 23rd January 2007

2007-01-24T13:53:00.000Z

Happy New Year! First post of the year, despite it nearly being February! Nice curry at Southern Indian restaurant Sagar last night (highly recommended), followed by a short walk to the Hammersmith Apollo.

Well, Ben Folds - simply BRILLIANT!!!! Third time I've seen him and up there with the other gigs I saw him at (although the solo set at Birmingham last year is hard to beat...)

All the favourites played and more, nearly two hours in total. Great to hear Underground, Evaporated and an extended version of Bitches Ain't Shit that was genius. Lots of songs utilised Ben's new red synthesizer - was like a kid with a new toy! Even a bit of Kraftwerk and Freebird thrown in.

New drummer Sam Smyth ( http://samsmyth.blogspot.com/ ) slotted in perfectly and seemed genuinely excited to be there. Crowd were up for it too - great atmosphere (although why do all the tall people always stand in front of me!). Not much chatting or interaction with the crowd, with hardly any introductions to the songs, and a sort of hard edge to some of the rockier songs, but no bad thing. Culminated in his stool being thrown with some force at the piano - ouch! Nice t-shirt with tour dates on too - small selection of merchandise but all decent options.

Palace Fires at the Camden Barfly to follow tomorrow, then it's off to Brussels for Razorlight and The Magic Numbers - gigtastic week. I ain't complaining....!

Scissor Sisters - Wembley - Sunday 26th November

2006-11-27T11:46:00.000Z

Pictures from a GREAT concert last night - what entertainment it was!

Halloween!

2006-11-06T15:08:00.000Z

Ahhhhh, yet another day in the commercial calendar. Used to be a bit of fun with a few trick or treaters, but this year it seemed to be a retail behemoth up there with Christmas and Easter. So did we boycott it? No - we embraced it!!!!

Off to Sandhurst for a party with the Sandhurst Soldier. TOP night had - everyone made the effort and dressed up, and D&P were superb hosts, all the way to the sausage, egg and bacon baps dished out the next morning. I'm pleased to say I won best costume - well and truly deserved, despite my lack of goatee after 3 weeks beard growth. I did try and carve one out in the morning but it made me look like a dodgy magician, so it had to go.

Games of bob-apple, pin the head on the (erm) headless horseman, and pass the ghostly parcel were had - utterly juvenile but great fun!

Check out the Soldier himself here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMq02Avk56U

Adriana pulled Death!

Shaun of the Dead / Stu of Currys, Northwich

J's winner on the left

Adriana, the lead singer of Evanescence, J and Pam

Shock at my win! Congrats to AK too

Even Satan has to eat...

"Another litre of beer please, barman!"

There's something strangely disturbing about this picture...

Dubai

2006-10-09T23:42:00.002+01:00

Well it was time to leave Tehran, albeit early, despite best attempts to extend my visa and get a re-entry permit. Headed to IKIA airport - the new one south of Tehran on Thursday. An impressive building and completely out of place really. However despite the grand appearances there were still little things that reminded you where you were - chaos at the security point ( I was allowed to put my bags through without a passport which was in the bags...), the coffee shop was shut for 30 mins as there was nobody to operate the till, and the toilets were still squat style!!! Landed in Dubai a couple of hours later and after a short transfer to the hotel (Meridien Fairway - superb) was reunited with JK at 1am in the morning - what a welcome sight!!!).

Four night spent in Dubai sleeping, shopping, eating well, and sleeping and swimming by the pool. Mall of the Emirates was impressive - the ski slope is mad!!!

Gold Souk

Skiing in the desert

Burj Al Arab

Noodle House

Superb meals though had at Medzo in Wafi City, the Noodle House in Deira City, and Shoo Fee Ma Fee - a Moroccan restaurant at the wonderful Souk Medinat. The latter resort was our favourite and we would certainly return there. Drinks on a terrace overlooking the Burj al Arab were memorable. Dubai overall is an odd place - there's not really any heart or soul to the place - it's all rather spread out and has no real centre, and the amount of building work going on is incredible.

After four wonderful nights it was time to return home to the UK - separate flight to the wife from Dubai to Heathrow which was weird, but 8 hrs later we were reunited at home.

My time in Iran and the Middle East was at an end and it was back to normal...

More images of Tehran

2006-09-26T19:37:00.000+01:00

"My children I do love, but martyrdom I love more" - nice!

Drove past this each day

Lunch!

Hezbollah poster one side of road, this the other...

Local Pizza takeaway / barbers

Driving school!

Persepolis and Shiraz part 2 - pictures

2006-09-16T10:27:00.000+01:00

Gate of All Nations - Persepolis

Persepolis

Old woman in the teashop

Mr Haj Mansor - teashop owner

Old Town street

Persepolis and Shiraz

2006-09-16T09:17:00.000+01:00

Another Friday, another obscene start - up at 3.45am to catch a 5.50am Iran Air flight to Shiraz, in the south of the country. A sensible early night, and 6 hours later when I woke I didn't feel that bad! A busy flight, on a huge (old) Airbus, with the usual bread and jam for breakfast. Met at Shiraz airport by Parvis, my driver and guide for the day - a decent bloke and whose life history I now know having spent 12 hours with him - been to UK in transit, studied in USA, went to Taiwan and Malaysia last year to look at recycling plants, application going through for a green card as most of his family are there, and so on!!! For a teacher I ask lots of searching questions ;-)

First stop was Naqsh-E-Rostam, a series of four tombs carved in the mountainside - hugely impressive with the detail and scale of them. Next stop Persepolis, considered to be Iran's big attraction, and one of the world's leading ancient sights. Unfortunately that also means half of Iran visits it each day - heaving it was, and Iranians don't exactly have the social skills when it comes to queuing, standing in your photos etc.

Now, before I get shot, Persepolis was good, but a little bit of me was disappointed - maybe I'd expected too much, but then the Bible (c) had said to compare it with the Pyramids and Coliseum - the main difference though is that they are intact, where as most of Persepolis is in pieces, so you have to use your imagination to picture what it was like. Still, an enjoyable few hours spent with my guide - I'm now an expert on that era, especially Darius the Great (I thought he was rubbish in Pop Idol, but...) Some good photos once I'd delivered death stares to Iranians. Boiling hot there though - another day spent desperate for a shower!

Into Shiraz after that, a pleasant city (Iran's second largest), comparable with Esfahan more than Tehran thankfully, with historical sights to visit and tree-lined avenues. Lunch at '110 Hamburgers', which my guide took me to as he said it was in my guidebook - yes it is I now know, but gets a bad review! Had a hot dog, which I suspect was actually dog given the strange taste, accompanied by a plate of crisps slathered with ketchup - not quite the french fries I expected! Boosted the energy levels though for the last few hours around town.

First stop the old Citadel, followed by a walk around the old town and (closed) bazaar, which for me was the highlight of the day. Great picture opportunities in the winding streets. Walked past an old tea-house and a pensioner, sitting on a step outside (which I suspect he has done for 30-40 years!) beckoned us over as he wanted his picture taking! My guide was speaking to him in the meantime - I thought they knew each other, but it turns out they didn't. So I snapped away, getting some wonderful pictures of him smoking his 'hookah' pipe. Then the two tea-shop workers wanted their pictures taking, and next an elderly woman was ushered in for her picture (which is my favourite). Tea duly served for me whilst my guide chatted. It was a great way of spending half an hour, and I left with a smile and an address on a piece of paper - they want copies of their portraits sending which I promised to do - a good deal I thought.

Next the Nasir-Ol-Molk mosque which was shut, but a knock on the door alerted the frail old caretaker who let us in for 80p. I'm becoming a right sucker for old mosques after Esfahan. This one was beautiful, and I was allowed to wonder around alone for 15 mins snapping away - it was an oasis of peace and calm and a real hidden gem. Last stops were the Shiraz University museum and the tomb of Hafez, the old Iranian poet who is revered by Iranians to an almost religious level, especially by women who adore his love and respect for them. It was fascinating to watch Iranians come and pay their respects, touching his marble tombstone and reading his works in view of it.

Back to the airport at 4.30pm for my 6.30pm flight, said my goodbyes to Parvis - "see you in Boston!" - then found a spot to review my photos whilst I waited for check-in to open. A local medical student, Mohsen, sidled up and we chatted for 20 mins. He spoke good English, but strangely disappeared after asking what I thought about the nuclear programme. Hmmm?!!!?

A great flight back on Iran Aseman Airlines (Fokker 100 this time - all the signs on board in Korean! Job lot!). A hot meal served despite the short one hour flight - chicken and rice! Can you believe it!!!! How did they come up with that? Must have some celebrity chefs doing the menus. Was delicious though, and one of the best meals I've had on a flight, complete with mineral water, Fanta, bread roll and a yogurt. Yet again, western airlines could learn a lot.

Back in the door of the flat at 9pm, tired again but a rewarding and interesting day. Next stop....?!!?!

Esfahan part 2 - pictures

2006-09-09T17:20:00.000+01:00

Khaju Bridge

My favourite picture of the day...

The sleeping tea-house waiters!

My camera fan

"Car in a bazaar"

Jameh ('Friday') Mosque

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, up close

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, as the sun goes down

Imam Mosque - silhouette

Shahrestan Bridge

Esfahan

2006-09-09T17:05:00.000+01:00

A welcome day away from Tehran, to the ‘jewel of Ancient Persia’: Esfahan. An early start was needed – the bast*rd alarm went off at 03.20, taxi at 04.00, and after picking up a colleague (Tim, ex-TN2) we sped to Maharabad Airport to catch our 06.00 Iran Air flight south. Four of us on a German Fokker plane – a relief, as the general rule is avoid anything from Russia! The plane was full as it’s holiday weekend in Iran – people travel around the country to see family and take gifts, with the wealthy flying! Cost of our flight? 390,000 Rials – a bargain at £23 return, and despite it being a 40 minute flight they found time to serve a small breakfast of bread, jam, pastries and orange juice. The service was excellent.

Landed in Esfahan just after 07.00, met by our guide for the day Emir – a top bloke, teacher usually, who was earning a small fortune, with us paying him 100,000 R each, but worth every penny. He had a whole day planned for us, covering all the big sights in his Paykan (see previous blog entry!), and it made the day effortless.

First stop the famous bridges across the river. 400 years old some of them, and majestically standing there. The Si-o-Seh bridge had a famous tea-house at one end, but unfortunately it was shut as we were there so early. No fear – a few smiles and they opened it just for us, locking the big metal gate again to keep locals out, much to their annoyance! We therefore had the place to ourselves, an amazing setting under an arch, with fresh sweet tea served to us by the ex-bodybuilder manager (photos of him on the wall in his gear!) His four young staff were fast asleep on a bed under the neighbouring arch, and I’ll always remember their startled yawning faces as they woke up to the sound of him banging a kettle next to them!

Esfahan already felt so different to Tehran. It still had mad traffic (of course) but also had leafy avenues, impressive buildings and more than anything friendly people. On the bridges alone numerous people came up to me just to say hello and practise their English, especially children and teenagers. The river itself was full of ‘swan’ boats, with families and couples leisurely sailing around. Not quite the ‘axis of evil’ image the press would like you to believe.

Next stop the Manar Jomban tomb with it’s shaking minarets – a bloke appears on the roof every hour and wobbles the towering minarets, which move quite considerably. Even more fascinating was the number of tourists, nearly all Iranian, who again wanted to speak to us (and include us in their videos!!). One young boy (see pictures) was fascinated by my digital camera, so I took his picture and showed him the result, to which he gave a massive smile. Following there we headed for an old Zooastrian fire temple, built from mud, and at the top of a small hill which we stupidly climbed in the baking sun! Good view from the top though.

A quick stop at the Chehel Sotun palace, set in beautiful gardens, after which we were starving and headed for the ‘famous’ Abbassi Hotel (the Shah used to stay there) for lunch. The Lonely Planet bible gave it’s restaurant a dreadful review, but we pressed ahead as a colleague had been and enjoyed it. Oh dear. Should have trusted the Bible ©. Great western toilets, which were worth it, and impressive public areas, but shocking service worthy of Basil Fawlty, and food that was poor neh dreadful. Our ‘special’ starter was like yellow wallpaper paste, and I still have trouble trying to describe the strange sweet taste of it – the closest we came to was Pledge polish with sugar. My chicken kebab was ok for the main course, and others tried desserts such as the special ice cream – so special it was inedible, and seemed to have been made using our returned starters!!!

The afternoon was spent visiting the incredible mosques in Esfahan – places of calm and incredible Islamic and Persian architecture. We visited the Jameh (Friday) mosque first, the oldest in Iran, and then the Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah mosques on Imam Square, the central heart of Esfahan. Each mosque was more impressive than the last, covered in the stunning blue, yellow and white tiling that became so familiar, and was all so photogenic. If filled my water bottle up at the Friday mosque – that had to be good for me!

We spent our remaining hours wondering around Imam Square, which by now was full of locals having picnics. Did some souvenir shopping, buying some stunning local crafts and chatting with their creators – even managed to haggle a bit (Fi – I got something free – you’d be proud!). More chats with locals – collared by Ali outside his carpet shop, first bluntly saying “NO CARPETS!’, after which he just chatted to me for 10 mins – ‘I studied in UK’ – ‘oh really? where?’ – ‘Oxford House School of English in 1977’ – ‘riiiiiiight!’. Ali’s now married to a British woman, she’s in the UK, his brothers in Newcastle, he last visited in the 90s, his sons are in the RAF, and business is good. Having chatted for 10 mins he ended with “Have you seen how they make the copper plates?” – cheeky bugger, always a salesman. I laughed and he gave me a sly wink as I headed for a tea-house, where we watched the sun set over the square.

Dinner in the Bashati traditional Iranian restaurant, with a manager who looked like Glen Madeiros and asked us about 6 times if we wanted soup, and thought he had a good set of comedy lines to use on us. The food was actually ok though.

Quick stop at another bridge (stunning night pictures of it) and then made our way to the airport, fighting our way through crowds of thousands, partying on the riverbank promenades, along with people in the streets stopping cars and handing out handfuls of sweets and cakes – it’s a tradition as part of this holiday weekend.

Our flight was the last of the day, the 22.50 back to Tehran, by which time we were absolutely shattered. Eventually got back to my flat at 12.59 am, crashing into bed having been awake for nearly 22 hours. Some great memories of the day though – shame it had to end…

Bistango

2006-09-01T15:33:00.000+01:00

No, not a dodgy disease, but the restaurant we went to last night! Considered to be Tehran's best and 'poshest' restaurant, found in the basement of a hotel. Impressive decor - all soft 'mood' lighting, a wall with water running down it, muted sort of funky Middle Eastern music in the background - all in all very nice and you sort of forgot where you were! Other wealthy Iranians around us, but women still in head-scarfs and trench coats to comply with the rules.

Very attentive, waiters clad all in black, frequently topping up our waters and Fantas (we know how to live) - even splashed out on a non-alcoholic Tuborg beer (disgusting...). I did think it was mad - you have this impressive looking restaurant, even with two glasses at each place setting, but no wine or booze allowed.

Food was average in my opinion - others were more impressed. You sort of got the impression that they'd seen one episode of Ready-Steady-Cook when 'lively' Harriott or the 'Hobbit' Worral-Thompson stacked loads of ingredients on top of each other. I had satay skewers for starter - I nearly laughed when it came: three wooden skewers with grilled beef pieces on them, stuck vertically into a piece of grilled pineapple, rising about 8-9 inches into the air, with a bit of rocket around the plate. Quite the most bizarre looking and tasting course I've had in any restaurant anywhere!!! Five others had a mushroom tart - one had dainty little dots of sauce around the plate, but with the others they obviously couldn't be arsed and just lobbed the sauce on the side!

Main course was honey-dijon-salmon, with potatoes and a ratatouille - well they must have run out of honey and dijon mustard, because I couldn't taste it, the salmon was over-cooked, and the potatoes were Aunt Bessie's wannabes - two thick wedges done 'Southern Style', fancifully placed diagonally across each other. Bless - you could see they were trying!

Cost? 260,000 Rials each - about £15. The average wage for a teacher here is 1.6 million Rials, so it cost a small fortune by local standards. Different...

Trip to Mount Damavand

2006-08-27T15:26:00.000+01:00

Finally escaped the city on Saturday with a day trip to the Mount Damavand area - it's the middle east's tallest mountain at 5671m - useless fact! Seven of us from the office in a small mini-bus, leaving Tehran at about 10am. Took ages to actually leave the city limits - it just sprawls and sprawls like a big dirty, erm, thing... Passed 'Play City' with it's rather decrepit looking ferris wheel! Disneyworld it was not.

Eventually got onto more country roads - took about two hours to get to the mountain area, stopping on route a few times to take pictures. Good to have the Nikon out for the first time here! The mountain itself is very similar to Mount Fuji, and quite stunning from a distance. The surrounding scenery was equally impressive - all deep valleys and ravines, rushing cold mountain rivers and streams, and winding roads - felt like Afghanistan or the Khyber Pass.

Oh yes, winding roads - not good for a queasy tummy. And yes, my friends the Iranian drivers excelled themselves, thinking nothing about overtaking on blind bends, hills and so on. We all hid behind our hands when a coach (proper National Express job) decided to overtake us and 3 other cars, heading down a hill just before a blind right turn - how it never hit a car coming around the corner I don't know...

Stopped for lunch in a small village called Rayneh - table for eight (we fed our brilliant driver) outside, causing a stir amongst the locals - I don't imagine they get many parties of Brits stopping. The guy below was the local character, ushering our bus into a parking space, for which he got a tip probably bigger than his months wages. Our restaurant was a local 'kabbadi', where you can have kebab, kebab or kebab. I had chicken kebab! Basically grilled chicken on a skewer, served with delicious fluffy rice, tomatoes, crisps and Fanta - huge portions and all tasty.

Journey back was via a large lake on the side of the mountain, but unfortunately (despite an attempt at a small bribe) we couldn't access the road to get closer to it, so we cut our losses and headed back to Tehran, all very tired. A good day though - nice to see the country and not just the steaming concrete jungle that is da 'Ran.
'Play City'... hours of fun

Mount Damavand

The local traffic warden

Local colour in Rayneh

Amazing scenery - we originally passed along the road you can see

Comments welcome - took two bl**dy hours to upload these...!

Dodgy websites

2006-08-24T14:11:00.001+01:00

I wish I could report something scintillating blog fans, but unfortunately my last week or so has just been the mundane daily commute through Tehran traffic, dull work, then back again. I do intend to travel and see the country at weekends, but probably not until mid/late September when it gets cooler further south - Yazd, Esfahan and Shiraz are at least on the list.

Thank heavens for the internet then, but it's interesting to see what sites the local feds choose to block - you get the yellow warning sign on your screen, as below:

And which sites was I looking at? Well not the obvious... first one I encountered blocked was www.NME.com - keeping in touch with my indie roots! Alas no, you can't view that one - the government are obviously worried that the local kids will get into Razorlight and The Kooks... Next on the list - www.theSun.co.uk! Page 3 me thinks causes issues. Needed the tabloid dirt on the Keane singer going into rehab - good news though, www.mirror.co.uk is ok to look at!

And, then, tried to access one of my webmail accounts, at Virgin.net. Need I say anymore...

Shopping

2006-08-19T17:36:00.000+01:00

Shopping today, the results of which are above and below. Coco Pops - result! A bargain at £3.

Confusion reigns when you go shopping.

The unit of currency is Rials, the most common of which are 10,000 and 20,000 notes. 17,000 R = about £1. A 10,000 Rial note is often known as 'a note' - a bit like a pound coin. Unfortunately prices in most shops are given in Tomans - 1 Toman = 10 Rials. So I'm there in a shop and they say '2,500' - you have a split second to decide whether they mean Tomans or Rials - it gets flippin' confusing... Sometimes they just say '2', meaning 2 notes, meaning 20,000 Rials...

Still with me?

Local Hero

2006-08-16T15:26:00.000+01:00

Look what popped up over night, on EVERY lamp-post on EVERY motorway and expressway:

But...

2006-08-16T15:22:00.000+01:00

... the satellite entry went a bit flat the next day - word got around the office about a local person - two vans pull up outside flats, uniformed 'religious police' force entry to each home, destroying all the satellite receivers and removing the dishes.

Makes you think a bit doesn't it?

I miss Channel 5

2006-08-14T14:42:00.000+01:00

Never thought I'd say that. Now of course satellite TV is banned here (Western images, bad influence etc) - of course everyone has it and you see dishes everywhere. I technically live in the UK still so I have a dish the size of a flying saucer in my garden - alas no satellite card though... That means no BBC Prime, film channels, sports etc. Instead I have around 500 channels from pretty much around the world, all free. 'Great!' you may say. Alas I have such visionary channels as:

TV Romania, Miracle TV, Al-Baghdad, Nile News, God Asia, Kurdistan, Iran Music, MBC Maghreb and so on...

Now I wish I had made some of them up, but they're all there - all a bit Alan Partridge! Add to that about 20 Italian channels (brilliant ITA TV - pure quality), a few German ones, numerous others, and ooooooodles of preview channels for dodgy Arabic porn stations (eg. 'SexySat'!!!) - oh yes, there are loads, with little flags and telephone numbers for countries like Saudi Arabia - oh the irony!

So I have the pleasure of about 7 channels that are 'watchable' - BBC World, which basically has the same news bulletin every 30 minutes and a weird 15 min version of Top Gear, and about four ITA music channels - thank god for them! Scissor Sisters, Hard-Fi, Furtado, Robbie etc, with the odd ITA rubbish (which allows me to make a cuppa).

So who's visiting then?

First impressions....

2006-08-13T14:28:00.000+01:00

Well it's Sunday and my fifth day here already - feels like an eternity already, although dunno yet if in a good way or bad way!

Arrived at Mehrabad airport at 12.25 am on Wednesday morning. All quite old in a faded 70s stylee. Immigration was no questions asked but long stares at both me and my passport for about 5 minutes (reminds me of TN2), but then allowed to pass and met my boss who collected my bags with me and whisked me off to my accommodation - big 'bungalow' / flat with huge lounge, all mod cons, patio etc. Quickly unpacked a few things and had a few hours sleep before venturing to the office the next day.

Living in the north of Tehran on a leafy compound that's peaceful and quiet, and a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre further south. The city itself sprawls for miles and miles, right up to the mountains to the north, although even they are not safe from development with some houses visible already on the slopes. Population is over 12 million, and I think everyone has a car...

Drive to the office takes about 30 minutes, but what a 30 minutes!!! Tehran traffic is MAD!!! The warnings in the Lonely Planet (herewith known as The Bible (c) ) fail to do it justice. Cars driving everywhere, in any direction, at any speed. Imagine a demolition derby on the M25 with no line markings and you're nearly there. Two cars are the most common - the old Paykan is prevalent, based on an old Hillman Hunter, and chucking out leaded petrol fumes like no tomorrow! And the other? The good old Peugeot 206 - parts shipped over here and built locally, and very common - a surreal sight! My old one is probably here somewhere.

Spent the first few days in the office getting used to the place. Staff really friendly and very welcoming. Got some money from accounts - £350 got me 5,133,000 Rials - I'm a millionaire!!! I now have to carry a brick around though - no Switch cards here.

Friday and Saturday were off days, the Iranian weekend. Ventured out of the compound on Friday morning, linen'd up to keep cool, and walked to the local bakers and fruit shop. The former was superb - sold every kind of bread and pastry you could possibly want, although I caused chaos by not knowing the system ("look at that funny English guy"):

1) Select items required (by pointing!)
2) Take ticket off woman server
3) Take ticket to bloke on till at door
4) Pay
5) Bloke stamps ticket
6) Take ticket back to woman and collect goods!

I'll know for next time... croissants and baguettes bought eventually. The fruit shop was easier - a quick 'Salam' to the gruff shop-keeper, and then used my best Farsi numbers to ask for bananas, apples, oranges, tomatoes, garlic and onions. I was definitely requesting four of everything (chahar!) but got six for some reason - I think he was either being generous or took great sympathy on me! Anyway, came to around £1 for the lot, so will be back there every week. Rest of the day spent by the pool with the iPod. Takeaway pizza from Pizzache (!) for tea.

Saturday morning spent getting more food in (the cupboard was bare) - had a driver and went to the Jamm-e-Jam mall to stock up. Hardly a western supermarket (about the size of a Tesco Metro!) but as close as I'll get to one, and it had all the basics I needed - tinned tomatoes, pasta, tinned tomatoes, pasta, erm... Back 'home' via the butchers (a whole fresh chicken bought and cut up for me - I had to look away for the neck bit!) and the local newsstand and, bought a copy of Iran Today and a new unlimited Internet card (£5.80 for a month). The rest of the day? Well Tehran Tummy got the better of me, so re-hydration sachets and bed was the order of the day... hope it wasn't the pizza...!

Das Huhn wurde etwas verkocht

2006-08-08T19:03:00.000+01:00

Well, greetings from flight LH600, Frankfurt to Tehran - current UK time is 19.00 - think I'm somewhere over the Black Sea!!! Had to go one better than Fi with her Honkers blogs!!! ;-)

Nice flight from London to Frankfurt - surreal checking in at TN2 for the first time, and having to go through departures with the commoners!! Straight to WH Smiths for a good supply of mags and newspapers: NME, Q, WSC, Guardian et al. Obviously confused the girl on the till completely with my bizarre "Can I have a dozen 1st class stamps?" question. The response: "Would you like six or twelve?" Speechless....

Spent an hour in the Business Class lounge before my flight - how drab! All very tired - like a dentist's waiting room without the 6 month old Bella or Golf Monthly magazines. Had a piece of chocolate cake and a glass of water - that business class ticket was worth every penny!

Some sort of savoury mousse concoction on the Frankfurt flight, with a hot roll and REAL METAL CUTLERY! Yes, either I have made it or Lufthansa trust the average passenger not to highjack a plane with a metal knife that won't cut a bread roll, let alone do violence...

Frankfurt airport a sea of grey - very efficient, you can tell, but just another airport. Spent more time in their lounge before boarding.

Lovely big seat with the most wonderful massage function - oooh errr. And you can get online - a bargain at £10 for 3 hours - well, worth it for the novelty factor. MSN with Lozz and Sis - surreal!!! "Where are you?" Well.... Had dinner with a nice glass of French Bordeaux Red - God I'll miss wine!!!!

Dinner (for you gourmonds) was:

- Sesame cured Tuna with marinated vegetables, avacado creme and lime olive oil

- Seasonal Greens with zesty Tomato Dressing

- Strips of Poularde in Jade Pumpkin Seed Sauce with PIne Nuts, Rice and Lentils

Bless - airline food - food on a real porcelain plate doth not make a good meal! Poularde?!!?!? Bloody chicken to anyone else!!! It was ok, but it's never what's quite described is it!? The Seasonal Greens? Well they'd be lucky to be still on the shelf in a bag in Asda, given their brown at the edges state. Rest was alright - food, innit?

Puddings just arrived - looks nice! Hmm, pics not loading - will add later!

Over and out, roger captain!

Slutspurt!

2006-07-31T22:51:00.000+01:00

Just got back from another spiffing weekend visiting the boss in Copenhagen! Hot weather again - no respite from that. Birthday celebrations on Saturday with a trip to Malmo, Sweden, across the amazing Oresund Bridge - Europe's longest, don't you know. Special mention to Panzon (below), a tapas / wine bar that we went to twice to for dinner it's so good - http://www.panzon.dk/ :

and Cafe Klimt - http://www.cafeklimt.dk/ - where we had a huge brunch on Sunday morning for 89k each, about Â£8. A huge plate of fruit, cold meats, salad, scrambled eggs, sausages, bacon, cheeses and so on was produced - a real mixture but it sort of worked!

Copenhagen is a nice compact city that's easy to walk around - good to see all the shops currently have a 'Slutspurt' on! Erm, guessing it's a sale of some sort - arf!

Alas it was all going so well something had to give - that'll be the journey home then, courtesy of SAS, now known as Sh*te Air Systems... A two and a half hour delay leaving Copenhagen, with a complete lack of information given to the punters - just a barrage of "we'll let you know in 5 mins.... 10 mins.... 30 mins.... waiting for a spare part... another announcement in 10 mins...".

Eventually they got bored of saying that, rolled a new plane up and moved us to that gate, only for us to wait for another 30 minutes! Then suddenly everybody started boarding - no announcement. And what did we get? No apology at any time during or after the flight - just a complimentary glass of water - just one though - they happily charged me €2 when I asked for another one! The row in front got bottles of water free though, due to incessant moaning. This was along with another €8 for a cardboard sandwich that allegedly had turkey in it, and a small tube of Pringles. Give me Easyjet anyday - never been delayed once with them!

Still, IRIS worked at TN3, which was nice...

Macbook Review

2006-07-25T23:14:00.000+01:00

I've had the new Macbook a few months now, so I suppose it's time for a quick review. It's been bought primarily for foreign trips that myself or Jay will go on, as we have an iMac Snow 600mhz still at home - bless it, it's old and out of date but it will still do the basics.

Anyway, we ordered the Black 2GHZ Macbook model - I know, it's a bit extra just for the black finish (and a larger 80GB hard drive), and we did think long and hard about it, but the wife fancied the Black model more so we went for it. It took about 8-9 days to be shipped from China to the UK. TNT delivered the parcel and I could barely contain my excitement upon receipt. First impressions? It's a beautiful machine to look at, no doubt about it.

The black finish is matt, smooth and seems tough. I've had it for a while now and there are still no scratches on the surface. It does attract finger prints but these are soon wiped off with a damp soft cloth. I love the finish - it looks smooth and refined - expensive looking almost. Whilst the white models are distinctively 'Apple' there is something special about this one.

The keyboard is superb - very responsive with every key easily found. It is certainly up there with the best keyboards that Apple have produced.

There has been much debate about the glossy screen - well I love it. It gives gorgeous and vivid impressions of my pictures - everything seems so alive and sharp. Reflections are not a problem unless you're outside at midday with the sun overhead!

Performance? Well I've used it for basic internet surfing, e-mail, website production in iWeb, movie editing in iMovie, DVD burning, music playing in iTunes and so on - it's quick in all respects - compared to my old iMac it's superb. It certainly does everything the average person could possibly ask of it! Reports suggest that it is not brilliant for games, but that's what my Playstation 2 is for!

Wireless internet through the built-in airport card is SUPERB! Quick and convenient.

Little touches add to it's attraction - the included web cam and Photo Booth software, the magnetic latch, the battery level indicator, the rubber feet, and so on and on.

A superb buy overall - go out and buy one today!

Solid

2006-07-25T15:53:00.000+01:00

Just mixed concrete for the first time - how many man points for that?!?